Frankenstein in Civilian Clothes, a.k.a. Boris Karloff

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circa 1967:  Portrait of British-born character actor Boris Karloff posing in front of a backdrop with several painted eyes.  (Photo by Hulton Archive/Getty Images)

Photos: English actor Boris Karloff, from  The Red List & The Hulton Archive

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Slip-On Overcoat Craze

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I consider ordering a knee long slip-on overcoat. You know, the roomy model with raglan sleeves sometimes called a balmacaan or a raglan. I have such an overcoat already, however a long model. It is not practical for driving the car or riding the bike.

These old illustrations from Das Herrenjournal and another German magazine start of 1960s give some inspiration. There was a slip-on overcoat craze back then.

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A near perfect slip-on overcoat in tweed.

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Herringbone slip-on with raglan sleeves and Prussian collar.

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Camel hair cloth is not only for the worshiped polo coat. You may use for a slip-on as well.

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Illustrations: The Journal of Style

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Bespoke Tailor Steven Hitchcock Giving a Cutting Class

Bespoke-tailor-Steven-Hitchcock-in-Copenhagen-The-Journal-of-Style-2Butler is the model

Bespoke-tailor-Steven-Hitchcock-in-Copenhagen-The-Journal-of-Style-5Drafing a pattern by “Rock of Eye”

Bespoke-tailor-Steven-Hitchcock-in-Copenhagen-The-Journal-of-Style-4Cutting the canvas on the bias

Bespoke-tailor-Steven-Hitchcock-in-Copenhagen-The-Journal-of-Style-3Full chest coat with drape

Bespoke-tailor-Steven-Hitchcock-in-Copenhagen-The-Journal-of-Style-6At The King’s New Square in Copenhagen

Savile Row tailors travel to the States, and once in a while to Paris, Munich or another big city on the Continent. Copenhagen up north is a very rare destination. Therefore it became an event, when Savile Row tailor Steven Hitchcock and his fiancée Celia paid a visit to Copenhagen last week.  Thanks to bespoke tailor Karina Mott in Copenhagen Steven took time to meet people, who are fond of the bespoke world, and he gave a 3-hour master class at The Danish Royal Theater for about 15 Danish and Swedish tailors.

A very interesting thing to hear in the theater was how lightweight cloth has changed cutting. To give an example, Steven explained that the simple traditional Savile Row fish cut in the side of coat doesn’t really work on modern 9, 8 or 7 oz. fabrics. A fish cut relies on molding the cloth in the skirt with the iron, yet you cannot do that with the new lightweight fabrics. Instead you must venture into more sophisticated fabric cutting to smooth out the jacket.

Another thing that I noticed is the amount of work and skills that go into making the canvas. It takes a lot of experience to create a canvas of haircloth and linen, which works well with the specific outer fabric.

Steven also explained his “soft tailoring” approach. Partly it is about the canvas, which he cuts on the bias, and the loose pad stitching. Thereby the jacket chest can drape a bit, and in combination with the rounded shoulders the drape effect creates an illusion of a strong upper body. Moreover, Steven inserts a relatively large upper sleeve into a relatively small armhole. That gives room for a lot of movement. I noticed that some of the Danish and Swedish tailors  got surprised by the large difference in measurements between armhole and sleevehead.

Steven’s way of cutting differs from the common method at Savile Row too. For the back he manipulates a block pattern like many others. However, for the front parts and for the armscye he applies “Rock of Eye”, that is, he puts aside tools except for chalk and a tape measure, and then he freehand drafts lines and curves. He was taught that method at Anderson & Sheppard’s, he told us. Rock of Eye gives more freedom to create the pattern as you like, yet it also introduces more risks I guess, and you have to be really good at it to succeed.

All in all it was a pleasure to watch Steven unfolding his craft. The 3-hour class didn’t feel too long at all, even for a layman like yours truly.

Bespoke-tailor-Steven-Hitchcock-in-Copenhagen-The-Journal-of-Style-1The shoulder angle of an English crown prince, whom Steven has made garments for.

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Dinner with Butler  in Tivoli, and Celia outside the hotel. Photos from Steven and Celia’s Instagram account.

Bespoke-tailor-Steven-Hitchcock-in-Copenhagen-The-Journal-of-Style-8The day after the class at the theater there was a sartorial meet-up at the whisky bar Lidkoeb in Copenhagen. I went for a strong smoky Ardbog whisky.


Bespoke-tailor-Steven-Hitchcock-in-Copenhagen-The-Journal-of-Style-9Bespokesmen in the dusk. From left, bespoke garments from Malcolm Plews, Tobias Enk Steven Hitchcock, Sartoria Ripense, and Steven Hitchcock.

For the American reader I can mention that Steven and Celia will be travelling to New York City and Boston start of October. You may read more at their website.

Photos: The Journal of Style

Posted in English Tailors, Tailors | Tagged | 2 Comments

Men and Women in Off-white and Light Brown Summer Attire

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Solaro brown herringbone suit, white shirt, paisley tie, tall crown panamahat, and lapel pin.

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Andrea Luparelli from Satoria Ripense in Rome in a lightbrown gabardine mohair suit. On the left, the business parter of Neapolitan tailor Gennaro Annunziata.

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Notice the silk neckerchief.

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Yes, women can dress in the same colours. The cut is different, of course.

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Speaking about women. Two more shots from Florence and the Pitti Uomo event …

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Photo: The Journal of Style

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Shop: New Batch of Vintage Fabrics Have Arrived

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More vintage fabrics have arrived. A few have been in stock before, however most of them are new in stock. The one above is the very last length of an amazing Mario Zegna summer cloth. Check a jacket of mine made up from it. Buy it at the store.

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In the photos above and below block checks jacketings for spring and summer from the end of the 1970s. Made by venerable Fossati, an Italian mill founded in 1871. Buy them at the store.

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A fancy jacquard weave jacketing in subdued shades. Produced by Ermenegildo Zegna in start of the 1970s. Buy it at the store.

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A chic jacquard navy blue blazer jacketing from Ermenegildo Zegna, woven in the start of the 1970s. A design and feel not to be found among modern fabrics. Buy it at the store.

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A great high twist summer jacketing in a classic design of tan and PoW plaids. Buy it at the store.

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A red-white hopsack summer jacketing. Chic, unique. Woven by Barchietto Zanone in the 1980s. Buy it at the store.

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A Donegal speckled tweed jacketing from Mario Zegna. Unique as well. From the late 1980s. Buy it at the store.

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In photos above and below, Mario Zegna suitings from the 1980s, perhaps some of the best worsted flannels out there. Alle three in a dogtooth weave. Buy them at the store.

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Photos: Grunwald

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