Bespoke Tailor Kathrin Emmer in Potsdam


At the internet, bespoke tailoring, shoemaking and shirtmaking have largely been reduced to London, Italy (Neaples!) and Paris. It is somewhat understandable. These cities provide world-class crafts, there can be no doubt about that. Besides, it also easier to communicate with the world that you have “a bespoke suit from London” than “a bespoke suit from Potsdam” … London, Italy and Paris have a unique brand power in bespoke, which supports your communication.

In other words, the bespoke reality is more diverse and interesting than the impression you get from the dominating internet discourses. There are lots of great craftsmen out there that you never hear about or read about. For instance, you will find more than 10 bespoke shoemakers in Germany, who will spend more time on getting you a pair of well-fitting shoes than John Lobb in St. James’s, not at least because a pair of well-fitting shoes is a consumer right in Germany, if you place an order with a bespoke shoemaker there.

Be that as it may, what I wanted to talk about is Kathrin Emmer, a bespoke tailor in Potsdam. She is a pupil of Volkmar Arnulf, and she has been working for a couple of other tailors too. She moved her workshop from Berlin to the basement of her nice home in Potsdam a few years ago. There she makes 20-30 suits yearly for Bernhard Roetzel and other classic style aficionados.





Kathrin Emmer has no desire to impose a certain cut on the customer, she told me. Every type of design should be possible. That said, she is, like all craftsmen, embedded in tradition. She has learnt tailoring and style philosophy in Germany. I think it means, as a rule, that shoulder construction is firm and subtle, not nonchalant. Moreover, I suppose it means that the cut is roomy, clean and comfortable, not narrow and skimpy like you can meet in Italy.

Kathrin Emmer speaks English fluently. You can read more about her at her website (in GERMAN).


Source: The Journal of Style

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Bespoke Trousers from Nicola Gebhard in Berlin


Another report from Berlin. This time not about Mr Arnulf but Nicola Gebhard, who has specialized in bespoke trousers. Asking for 140 euros (excluding cloth) for a pair of trousers, she has a very accessible price point. Evidently, with that price, Nicola Gebhard delivers a different product from Mr Arnulf and other top tailors. Still, she has proper tailor education, and she makes a fine pair of trousers, perhaps, casual trousers in cotton or denim in particular.

That I know, because I have ordered four pair of trousers from her by now. One pair of flannel trousers with pleats and turn-ups, and three pair of flat front cotton trousers. The latter trousers I like the most.

Nicola Gebhard sews all seems on her sewing machine, and she fuses the waistband instead of using canvas. Still, you have a true bespoke process with paper pattern and fittings, and she can make any sort of trousers that you would like.

She prefers to speak German but she knows English.

More at her website (in German) …

Source: The Journal of Style

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Contrasts and Similarities in a Sports Jacket Dress


Nothing wrong with a distinct contrast between top and bottom, if you are in sports jacket. A contrast combination can be too hard though. Top and bottom may end up in completely separate camps.

To avoid that I like to create similarities between top and bottom as well. It may be the colour’s hue, which could be at about the same level – as in the relationship between jacket and trousers shown above. And, it may be the socks that refers to the tie (and shirt) instead of the trouser’s colour, also demonstrated above. A brownish handkerchief in the breast pocket would have completed the logic.

Both Harris Tweed and cord trousers are bespoke from​​ an Italian tailor. The brogue monk shoes are from an old shoemaker in Warsaw. The shirt is from Camiceria Carmen. And, Antonio Muro has made the unlined navy wool tie.

Source: The Journal of Style

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James Joyce Style

James Joyce in 1930 James Joyce James Jooyce in Overcoat James Joyce Joyce James Joyce in 1939

Do you obsess about showing the right amount of linen beneath your jacket sleeve? Do you coordinate tie, shirt and handkerchiefs meticulously? Do you worry about the tie knot during the day?

Perhaps James Joyce did that too. However, in that case, one doesn’t feel it. James Joyce seems to be taking it easy. He dwells in his clothing. He knows that a charming nonchalant style has little to do with technical mastery of clothing items, and a lot to do with how you relate emotionally to your clothing.

Source: Yale University Library and more

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Shop: The Original Camel Hair Overcoating and Worsted Flannels


Flamboyant playwright Noël Coward in the flamboyant camel hair polo coat.


100 % camel hair overcoating, deadstock from Yorkshire in England.

Mario Zegna, 470 grams

Late 1970s dogtooth worsted flannel from Mario Zegna.


Late 1970s worsted flannel in prince of wales from Mario Zegna.

Read more and check out other newly released cloth at the webshop.

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