Bespoke Trousers from Nicola Gebhard in Berlin

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Another report from Berlin. This time not about Mr Arnulf but Nicola Gebhard, who has specialized in bespoke trousers. Asking for 140 euros (excluding cloth) for a pair of trousers, she has a very accessible price point. Evidently, with that price, Nicola Gebhard delivers a different product from Mr Arnulf and other top tailors. Still, she has proper tailor education, and she makes a fine pair of trousers, perhaps, casual trousers in cotton or denim in particular.

That I know, because I have ordered four pair of trousers from her by now. One pair of flannel trousers with pleats and turn-ups, and three pair of flat front cotton trousers. The latter trousers I like the most.

Nicola Gebhard sews all seems on her sewing machine, and she fuses the waistband instead of using canvas. Still, you have a true bespoke process with paper pattern and fittings, and she can make any sort of trousers that you would like.

She prefers to speak German but she knows English.

More at her website (in German) …

Source: The Journal of Style

Posted in Tailors, Trousers | Tagged | Leave a comment

Contrasts and Similarities in a Sports Jacket Dress

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Nothing wrong with a distinct contrast between top and bottom, if you are in sports jacket. A contrast combination can be too hard though. Top and bottom may end up in completely separate camps.

To avoid that I like to create similarities between top and bottom as well. It may be the colour’s hue, which could be at about the same level – as in the relationship between jacket and trousers shown above. And, it may be the socks that refers to the tie (and shirt) instead of the trouser’s colour, also demonstrated above. A brownish handkerchief in the breast pocket would have completed the logic.

Both Harris Tweed and cord trousers are bespoke from​​ an Italian tailor. The brogue monk shoes are from an old shoemaker in Warsaw. The shirt is from Camiceria Carmen. And, Antonio Muro has made the unlined navy wool tie.

Source: The Journal of Style

Posted in Fall and Winter Style, Odd Jackets | Tagged , | Leave a comment

James Joyce Style

James Joyce in 1930 James Joyce James Jooyce in Overcoat James Joyce Joyce James Joyce in 1939

Do you obsess about showing the right amount of linen beneath your jacket sleeve? Do you coordinate tie, shirt and handkerchiefs meticulously? Do you worry about the tie knot during the day?

Perhaps James Joyce did that too. However, in that case, one doesn’t feel it. James Joyce seems to be taking it easy. He dwells in his clothing. He knows that a charming nonchalant style has little to do with technical mastery of clothing items, and a lot to do with how you relate emotionally to your clothing.

Source: Yale University Library and more

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Shop: The Original Camel Hair Overcoating and Worsted Flannels

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Flamboyant playwright Noël Coward in the flamboyant camel hair polo coat.

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100 % camel hair overcoating, deadstock from Yorkshire in England.

Mario Zegna, 470 grams

Late 1970s dogtooth worsted flannel from Mario Zegna.

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Late 1970s worsted flannel in prince of wales from Mario Zegna.

Read more and check out other newly released cloth at the webshop.

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Snapshots of Sartorial London in September

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Turnbull & Asser

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New & Lingwood

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Foster & Son

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Cordings

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Lock & Hatters

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The master himself sketching me the lapidus cuff and the cocktail cuff

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An Italian is moving in

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Maurice Sedwell

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The English reefer jacket by Richard Anderson

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At Henry Poole’s capturing the dinner jacket, house buttons, and new old house tweed

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Source: The Journal of Style

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