Pitti Uomo Street Style


Where else other than Italy will you meet a refined combination of  jacket-shirt-tie-handkerchief on a man with a liberal, intellectual hair style?

Pitti Uomo street style rules.

Photo: The Journal of Style

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Rivolta Shoes

Rivolta-shoes-Milan-The-Journal-of-Style-1Burgundy derby shoes

Rivolta-shoes-Milan-The-Journal-of-Style-2Blake-Stitched oxford shoes

Rivolta-shoes-Milan-The-Journal-of-Style-3Cognac semi-brogue shoes

Rivolta-shoes-Milan-The-Journal-of-Style-4Burgundy tassel loafers

Rivolta-shoes-Milan-The-Journal-of-Style-5Black monk shoes

My leather shoe collection consists of bespoke and made to measure shoes mainly, and I can have hard time relating to ready to wear shoes. That could sound snobbish or ridiculous, I know,  but I tend to imagine, how my feet will demolish those fine shapes, how my heels will  slide around, and how the instep will squeeze my upper foot, when I contemplate ready to wear shoes.

Others are lucky. They have feet, which fit ready to wear shoes well, and they shouldn’t bother with bespoke. There are so many ready to wear options out there, and the price is more fun.

Rivolta shoes could be shoes to consider, if you are in ready to wear camp. Rivolta is an old shoemaker firm in Milan, which is now more of a shoe brand. I visited their stand in Pitti Uomo, and I saw very classic shoes there, yet more refined in my view than the usual English goodyear welted shoes from Northampton. I believe the price lies a little above Crockett & Jones shoes.

Photos: The Journal of Style

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Florentine Shirtmaker Leonardo Bugelli

Shirtmaker-Leonardo-Bugelli-in-Firenze-The-Journal-of-StyleLeonardo Bugelli, the most renowned Florentine shirtmaker, in his new workshop at Via Frà Bartolommeo 21/R. When I dropped by two weeks ago, we talked about that precious bespoke clothing and accessible ready to wear are blending. People may combine a 2000 euro bespoke sports jacket with 50 euro trousers. Old categories of highbrow and lowbrow mix. It is not an either-or situation anymore. In his Leonardo exemplifies the movement himself. I wrote about the phenomenon here too.

Tie-maker-Raffaele-Muro-The-Journal-of-StyleTiemaker Raffaele Muro of Antonio Muro was also there. Unlike Leonardo, who prefers a little flamboyance, Raffaele is always soberly dressed in grey, white, beige or blue.

Photo: The Journal of Style

Posted in Neckwear, Odd Jackets, Trousers | Tagged , | 2 Comments

Swedish Style


Among Nordic countries Sweden has the most fashion and style conscious men. Norwegian, Finnish, and Danish men are neanderthals in comparison. Perhaps Icelandic men can compete with the Swedes but they are so few, so they really don’t count.

I once dicussed with a diplomat, why Swedish men have more clothing and style awareness.

“House of Bernadotte,” he concluded.

The royal house of Sweden, House of Bernadotte, has French roots unlike the royal houses of Denmark and Norway, which stem from House of Glücksburg in Northern Germany. According to the diplomat the French connection has fueled a refined aesthetic regime in Sweden, which still influences taste in Sweden of today.

I am sure there is more to that explanation of Swedish style but I will often think about the diplomat’s reflection, when I see a fashionably dressed Swedish man like I did last week in Pitti Uomo: There is a Bernadotte!

Photo: The Journal of Style

Posted in Fall and Winter Style | Tagged , | 1 Comment

Sports Jacket Attire Numero Uno


First stop, when dressing down a business suit, should be a solid brown sports jacket in combination with midgrey flannel trousers, sky blue shirt, blue tie and brown shoes.

I had almost forgotten it. The elderly man in Pitti Uomo two days ago reminded me about the tradition, and just how bullet proof this particular sport jacket style is.

You might question the blue shirt and the blue tie but they are the whole point in my opinion: These colour tones are what you need to urbanize and to modernize your rustic old-fashioned tweed and flannel.

Try sports jacket attire numero uno.

Photo: The Journal of Style

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Posted in Fall and Winter Style, Odd Jackets, Trousers | Tagged | Leave a comment