The Two Button DB

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I intent to modify features, when visiting the tailor but I always end up at the usual conservative ones: double-vented, flap pockets, six buttons on a double breasted.

Luckily, others don’t hold back. The young men above, tailors from Neaples, I believe, are donning a db with wide lapels, patch pockets, jetted ticket pocket, and minimalistic two buttons on the front.

Source: The Journal of Style

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Bespoke Glasses – Part 2/2

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Do you remember the visit at Cold Heggem?

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It’s been a few months since we were past the Copenhagen based craftsman, who makes bespoke glasses of horn and wood. Jimmy Poulsen sparked the process. He has worn glasses since childhood to adjust for nearsightedness. He wanted to upgrade and placed an order with the small eyeglass maker in Pistolstræde in central Copenhagen. Jimmy had some ideas for glasses, but needed to discuss them with maker Rasmus Cold. They ended up at a model with fronts inspired by Piet Hein’s super ellipse. The material is buffalo horn.

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Jimmy tells that he is extremely pleased with the result. He likes the shape and the changing hues of the horn frame, and fit is excellent indeed. When he came to pick up the glasses, they found that the frame and side bars needed some addidtional small adjustments, and Rasmus Cold made them immediately.

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As always Jimmy was well dressed, when I met him, and I had to take some pictures. It also gives an idea of ​​the context in which the glasses must fit into.

Source: The Journal of Style

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Off-White Summer Attire

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White summer attire is a little outmoded, isn’t it? Bright colours are more common, often used in polo shirts and bermudas. Nonetheless, white and shades of off-white look great in summer. They can connote to something elevated, aristocratic and pure, if you keep it in dull textures. Shiny white is for villains.

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Source: The Journal of Style in Florence

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The Versatile Bold Suit

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Butler makes things clear. There is no hesitation in his style. Few would dare to ask their tailor to make up a royal blue double breasted suit like the one he is wearing in these photos.

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It’s a shame. Butler’s Dormeuil mohair suit, crafted by Steven Hitchcock in London, is not only smashing.

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It is more versatile than you would think it is. Because it is not just a suit. Thanks to light shade buttons, the jacket works as a blue summer blazer as well. Above and below Butler pairs the blazer with plain white cotton trousers and light blue jeans.

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The dark red double monks are from John Lobb (Hermès, RTW), and Crockett & Jones have made the blue suede tassel loafers. Shirts are from Napoli Su Misura and Sean O’Flynn.

Source: The Journal of Style

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Details of a Volkmar Arnulf Suit

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First part of my exploration of German bespoke tailoring has ended. The double breasted suit from Volkmar Arnulf has arrived. I will, of course, have some photos taken of me wearing it. I can disclose that cut, make and feeling are quite different from my Italian and English (and Danish) bespoke suits.

By now, let’s look at some details. In the photo above you see one of the front pockets. Nothing special, you might say, but notice the stripes. They not only match meticulously. The jetting lets the stripes run in an unbroken line down the flap too. In other words, that is not a speciality of Anderson & Sheppard and expatriates solely.

Moreover, you can identify that the jacket has been cut with a side body, not a fish cut. You have to look carefully though. The seam below the flap is almost invisible due to exact pattern matching.

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Trousers are made with side adjusters and buttons for braces. It is an either-or really. The waistband should fit snugly around the waist, if you select side adjusters, and it should be a tad larger, if you use braces. These trousers are cut for wearing with side adjusters. If I lose a little weight, miraculously, the buttons for braces are there. Note the ribbons with buttons and the loops.

Volkmar-Arnulf-suit-details-4-The-Journal-of-StyleAnd, the shoulders. Back and front stripes cannot match, according to bespoke tailor Thomas Mahon of English Cut, who calls it “The Matching Myth“. Well, they can. Volkmar Arnulf agrees that it is complicated to execute but it can be done. I did not ask for it on the double breasted, yet he wanted to demonstrate his skills, I guess, and so he has matched the stripes at the shoulders.

By the way, the vintage cloth is from the Grunwald store.

Source: The Journal of Style

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