Sartorial Meet Up

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As you can imagine the sartorial community in Copenhagen is a small community. It is strong nonetheless. We had a meet up in November, and Thursday afternoon some of us met again. In the photo above Butler dresses his royal blue Hitchcock coat in patterns and blue shades.

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Jakub in a brown made to measure summer suit, white shirt and Hermès tie.

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Shoe show-off. Butler on the right in blue suede loafers, and on the left summer shoes made up from old style canvas linen.

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Jeppe in a fresco suit made by Musella Dembech in Milano.

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Michael was bold as always combining colours and patterns nonchalantly. Peter Undén has made the bespoke summer jacket.

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The crowd. The bags on the quay boards come from the local makers Broe & Co and Piet Breitholm.

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An impeccable summer attire. Seersucker jacket and trousers are bespoke by Ripense in Rome.

You can find a movie clip at Youtube from the meet up here.

Photos: The Journal of Style

Posted in English Tailors, Italian Tailors, Sport Coats, Street Photos, Suits, Tailors | Tagged | Leave a comment

Old Men’s Style

Ease is a key to style. It makes things natural. Generally older men are better at ease and better at style consequently. Just take a look at these photos from Pitti Uomo in Florence.

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I’ve photographed the guy above a few times before. Check here and here. He’s brilliant at dressing. He is conservative, although not dull at all. Notice the combination of bold patterns and subdued blue shades. It reminds of Prince Charles’ combinations.

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The title of the photo above could be How to combine a navy blue suit and a navy blue tie. It can be tricky. The style directs the eye to fit, which must be immaculate, and to details, which need final touches. Notice the club shirt collar.

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Another well known Pitti Uomo gentleman. Apart from the glasses, which diverges, he sports a very harmonious real-world style.

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An exemplary use of blue blazer, striped tie and chinos. You don’t see it that much around, because people are busy twisting classic styles.

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And now for the lightweight safari style jacket with plenty of pockets and sometimes straps, also called a sahariana. Jackets and shirts in safari style were so popular in the 1970s that even James Bond (Roger Moore) wore them along with his lounge suits and sports coats. For the last seasons sahariana style jackets and shirts have had a comeback. Usually you will pair them with trousers in a related offwhite shade. However that can become theatrical, too colonial. The elderly gentleman above shows how to bring in more colours.

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Royal blue, electric blue, French blue and other loud blue shades are fashionable at the moment, and in bespoke as well a tailor told me. This very cool looking signore combines his navy blue cotton blazer with French blue trousers.

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A consistent Zorba look including lots of linen, stubble, a great smile and leather sandals.

Photos: The Journal of Style

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Mighty Bloggers in Classic Menswear

Will ended his blog A Suitable Wardrobe last year. I believe it was the largest on classic menswear out there. Now it is not completely clear, who has the lead. This is mainly due to a rising number of rapid Tumblr blogs and Instagram accounts, which compete for attention with traditional menswear blogs like Will’s (and my own). True, Tumblrs and Instagramers communicate through images mainly. To a lesser extent they use the written word, save a few Tumblr blogs for instance the eminent Die, Workwear! Nonetheless these new channels conquer attention in the field of classic menswear, and it is great if we speak about a Tumblr like Voxsartoria, which is an outstanding image source. That said I cannot really see how slow menswear blogs combining text and images will disappear or even shrink. They are able to transmit knowledge, which the agile image machines cannot do.

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Hugo Jacomet of Parisian Gentleman is one of the leading bloggers from my own Blogspot and WordPress generation, who believes in writing as well. He was in Pitti Uomo in June wearing French haute couture tailoring, probably Cifonelli.

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Simon Crompton of Permanent Style is another top WordPress blogger on fine classic menswear. Possibly he is closest to Will’s throne, if it makes sense to talk about that position today. In Pitti Uomo I saw him wearing a tobacco brown linen suit from Spanish tailor Langa.

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Fabio Attanasio of The Bespoke Dudes is a fairly new, yet apparently mighty blogger in classic menswear. He is based in Italy. Like other people in the trade he is aware that it can be a good idea to sport clothing yourself in front of cameras like mine to get the message through. He seems to have created an ingenious mixture of WordPress, Tumblr, Instagram and Facebook communications. I got a picture of Fabio in Pitti Uomo, when he was wearing an offwhite linen suit, a straw hat, tassel loafers, and his beloved phone.

Photos: The Journal of Style

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A Guide to Classic Summer Shoes

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Summer shoes have often been a headache for the man, who cares about style. They somehow tend to become either too formal or too informal. Here’s a guide, which hopefully can make choosing the right summer shoes easier.

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Brown penny loafers are the default summer shoes. You can pair them with suits, chinos or shorts. The stronger ones are goodyear welted, however you should consider blake-stitched versions, since they appear less heavy, which is a nice quality in warm weather. Maker: Meermin

 

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Tassel loafers, another summer classic, although many men will wear them during winter time as well. The black ones are very conservative, and they are best for navy blue and dark grey suits. Makers: Crockett & Jones and Alden

 

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The sole of the popular driving mocs are covered with rubber studs. That is their main feature compared to other slip-on shoes. Car Shoes and Tod’s make some of the most famous driving mocs, however many shoe manufactures produce them today. Maker: Tod’s

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Gucci introduced the black horse bit loafers in 1953. What to think about them? Conservative, yet glamorous. The latter feature means that many sartorialists shy away from them. Pair the horse bit loafers with a navy blue summer business suit, or with a blue blazer and mid grey trousers.  Maker: Gucci

 

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Belgian loafers have been fashionable for a couple of seasons now. It is said that Henri Bendel invented them in the 1950s. He had them made up in Belgium, and afterwards he shipped them to the States, where they became a hit. Often Belgian loafers will be unlined, and usually they will have a small bow on the instep. Maker: Belgian Shoes

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Moccasin shoes have side and soles, which are made out of one piece of leather. The most traditional mocs have no outer sole. If you want to sport mocs as street footwear an outer sole is advisable though. Mocs have laces, which run at the edge around the heel. The laces end up in a bow or tassels on the instep. Maker: Fairmount

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Suede shoes and nubuck shoes are traditional summer shoes. Perhaps “white bucks”, which are associated with the WASP lifestyle of the Mid-20th Century, have become a little dated. The derby versions with red rubber soles can be paired with linen suits, chinos or even bermudas. Maker: Fairmount

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Two-tone co-respondent shoes signify the 1920s. They were around before and after that decade though. Their best match is an off-white linen suit but they have more options. The key to co-respondents is using them, when you are in a show off mood. You must be a happy spirit in co-respondents. Photo: Leffot

 

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Braided shoes are classic summer shoes but few are to be found. Could be they don’t look chic enough in the eyes of the present generations. Be aware of the quality. It varies. Maker: Shoepassion

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Boat shoes have a hard white ribbed rubber sole made for the slippery deck. The upper should be brown. Sperry Top-Siders brought them to the market in the 1930s. Boat shoes are best with casual chinos or shorts. Maker: Sperry

 

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Prince Albert loafers are hybrid shoes blending slippers and loafers. The model above has been goodyear-welted. If you want to use Prince Albert loafers with bermudas or informal chinos a blake-stitched and less robust model would perhaps be a better choice. Maker: J. FitzPatrick

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Plimsolls are the original sneakers. They became tennis shoes and later modern sneakers. The upper is made of canvas and the sole is made of rubber. They are perfect with bermudas or with, yes, a blue blazer and white ducks. Choose plimsolls in white or navy blue. Photos: Sportsdirect and Ebay

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The Spaniards in the Pyrenees invented espadrilles long ago. The sole, which consists of jute rope, gives them character. The upper is made up from strong cotton canvas. The style can appear effeminate and delicate, and  espadrilles can be be warm compared to sandals. They are very stylish nonetheless from a historical point of view. Maker: Zabattigli

 

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Jesus sandals should be made to measure in a leather shop. They are not difficult to make, and many leather shops will provide the service. Wear them with off-white linen. Amen. Makers: Sandalmageren and Broe & Co

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Perhaps I should have skipped them but cork Birkenstocks are summer classics, which really cannot be ignored by the sartorialist. The most relevant models in my view are the Milano and the Zadar. which have heel straps. Maker: Birkenstock

Illustrations: The Journal of Style

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Pitti Uomo Street Style Summer 2015 – part 1

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Pitti Uomo street style of summer 2015 is not much different from Pitti Uomo street style of summer 2014. You continue to have narrow cuts and skimpy trousers, bare ankles, cigarettes and cigars. Perhaps I saw fewer silly sunglasses and exaggerated classic costumes this year on more traditionally minded dressers. The young fellows above represent what is going on. Tight jacket cuts (though wide lapels), drainpipe trousers with turn-ups, classic shades. I think the style works really well on them. They have the slender frames, which are mandatory to sport the Neo-Edwardian fashion.

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Relax! is one of the best advices, you’ll find, if you want to create style and elegance. I see many men in the right clothing, both online and offline, who cannot let go of control, and therefore end up looking like dummies.  These two gentlemen in a bespoke double breasted navy suit and a bespoke linen suit are not among them. They know how to relax. Note the blue tie and striped blue shirt with the off-white linen suit. A good idea, when you want to urbanize the colonial connotation of linen.

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The Castillo brothers of Spanish Man 1924. They have their own laidback, subdued and happy take on classic style.

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Lino Leluzzi of Al Bazar in Milano showing a young guy how to tie the necktie properly. In Lino’s world tie knotting begins with a cutaway collar and a wool tie.

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Photos: The Journal of Style

 

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