Copenhagen by Night

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– at my book release reception. Bespoke suits from Alfred Alm, Steven Hitchcock, and Peter Undén.

Source: The Journal of Style

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Sartorial Match-Up

Sartorial-match-up-The-Journal-of-style

I’ve just released a book about classic style. It’s in Danish, so I won’t bother you with it. Instead, I’m bringing a photo from the annual large book fair in Copenhagen. I was there to promote the book in my new Volkmar Arnulf suit (made up from vintage cloth), when I met a fellow lounge suit man, Anders Lund Madsen, perhaps the most famous tv host here, and the brother of Peter Lund Madsen, whom I’ve used as a model in the book. The photo speaks for itself but let me add that it demonstrates that a suit can be a tool for self-expression.

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The book at my publisher’s stand.

Source: The Journal of Style

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Bespoke Istanbul

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Bespoke is everywear – in Istanbul too. We had a stay in the huge Turkish city two weeks ago, and I spent two-three hours visiting a few craftsmen there. According to a source, the better ones are located behind Taksim Square in the Beyoğlu district, so I jumped on a ferry at Kadıköy on the Asian side of The Bosphorus, where we lived, and then I took the subway to Taksim.

After a kebab, I rang the door bell of Terzi Amca, the man who tailors President Recep Tayyip Erdoğan’s suits. Mr Amca has a workshop in a flat situated opposite to Taksim Square at Cumhuriyet Cad. 29.

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The workshop is old, silent and charming, and it reminded me of experiences I have had in Italy. I believe Mr Amca only has one man working with him. I’m not sure, how style and make compare to tailoring from Italy, England etcetera but the cut looked conservative and fairly roomy, and hand-sewing is the preferred method. In fact I only noticed one sewing machine in the atelier, a very old one, of course.

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The interlining and canvas used looked sligthly different from what I have seen elsewhere but appeared right, although I had a feeling that the quality is not refined.

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How a door should look like in true workshop.

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Terzi Amca stocks many old fabrics, yet it seems he mainly makes suits and jackets in new fabrics from Dormeuil, Drapers and other high end cloth merchants. The lining I saw is from Dormeuil.

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Mr Amci has more famous clients than President Erdogan. Ludovic, a soccer player, is one of them. You see a drawing of his jacket above. Apparently, Donald Trump (!) has ordered a suit from Mr Amci too. There is a photo of him on the wall, and the younger man, who helped with translation, pointed to it letting me know that Trump had been at the flat as well.

I was quoted a price of 2000 euros for a two-piece suit, excluding cloth. Honestly, I got the impression that the price is volatile, and that it could be lower as well. I don’t know though.

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Passing through the Beyoğlu district, I arrived at the fabric store and tailor frontshop Çağlar Kumaş at Atıf Yılmaz Cad. 13. They offer both bespoke shirts and bespoke suits. Shirts start at 400 TL (approx. 142 euro), and suits start at 2000 TL (approx. 708 euro). You receive two or three fitting, when ordering a suit.

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Minutes away I discovered a bespoke shoemaker named Ayar Kundura. They are located in a basement. From what I could see, they deliver real bespoke with a personal last, but they don’t welt their shoes. Gluing is the method. I forgot to ask about prices. Surely, they will be lower than in London and Paris.

Bespoke-Istanbul-The-Journal-of-Style  Source: The Journal of Style

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Bespoke Tailor Kathrin Emmer in Potsdam

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At the internet, bespoke tailoring, shoemaking and shirtmaking have largely been reduced to London, Italy (Neaples!) and Paris. It is somewhat understandable. These cities provide world-class crafts, there can be no doubt about that. Besides, it is also easier to communicate with the world that you have “a bespoke suit from London” than “a bespoke suit from Potsdam” … London, Italy and Paris have a unique brand power in bespoke, which supports your communication.

In other words, the bespoke reality is more diverse and interesting than the impression you get from the dominating internet discourses. There are lots of great craftsmen out there that you never hear about or read about. For instance, you will find more than 10 bespoke shoemakers in Germany, who will spend more time on getting you a pair of well-fitting shoes than John Lobb in St. James’s, not at least because a pair of well-fitting shoes is a consumer right in Germany, if you place an order with a bespoke shoemaker there.

Be that as it may, what I wanted to talk about is Kathrin Emmer, a bespoke tailor in Potsdam. She is a pupil of Volkmar Arnulf, and she has been working for a couple of other tailors too. She moved her workshop from Berlin to the basement of her nice home in Potsdam a few years ago. There she makes 20-30 suits yearly for Bernhard Roetzel and other classic style aficionados.

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Kathrin Emmer has no desire to impose a certain cut on the customer, she told me. Every type of design should be possible. That said, she is, like all craftsmen, embedded in tradition. She has learnt tailoring and style philosophy in Germany. I think it means, as a rule, that shoulder construction is firm and subtle, not nonchalant. Moreover, I suppose it means that the cut is roomy, clean and comfortable, not narrow and skimpy like you can meet in Italy.

Kathrin Emmer speaks English fluently. You can read more about her at her website (in GERMAN).

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Source: The Journal of Style

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Bespoke Trousers from Nicola Gebhard in Berlin

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Another report from Berlin. This time not about Mr Arnulf but Nicola Gebhard, who has specialized in bespoke trousers. Asking for 140 euros (excluding cloth) for a pair of trousers, she has a very accessible price point. Evidently, with that price, Nicola Gebhard delivers a different product from Mr Arnulf and other top tailors. Still, she has proper tailor education, and she makes a fine pair of trousers, perhaps, casual trousers in cotton or denim in particular.

That I know, because I have ordered four pair of trousers from her by now. One pair of flannel trousers with pleats and turn-ups, and three pair of flat front cotton trousers. The latter trousers I like the most.

Nicola Gebhard sews all seems on her sewing machine, and she fuses the waistband instead of using canvas. Still, you have a true bespoke process with paper pattern and fittings, and she can make any sort of trousers that you would like.

She prefers to speak German but she knows English.

More at her website (in German) …

Source: The Journal of Style

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