Teddy Bear Overcoats

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Overcoats have become lighter and shorter. A British warm and a ulster are seen rarely nowadays.

Pitti Uomo i Florence tells the story. Passing by the stands I saw a good amount of overcoats but of the slip-on type.

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Lighthearted teddy bear overcoats symbolize the movement. They have a long history in fashion indeed. James Joyce wore one.  Yet, they are modern too. They don’t take their role as overcoats too seriously. Fun, not protection, is their prime virtue.

Photos: The Journal of Style

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Generously Cut Overcoats from the 1950s

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In an age of slim fit it is relieving to see generously cut overcoats. You may breath again.

Above a double breasted four button balmacaan in prince of wales (check out  similar cloth at the store). The year is 1955. Details: Flapped pockets, swelled edges, and turnback cuffs. Footwear: Once again “wallabee” shoes before Clarks promoted them.

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On the left, single breasted dogtooth overcoat with flapped patch pockets and turnback cuffs.  On the right, double breasted 4 x 2 royal blue chesterfield.

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On the left, single breasted grey chesterfield. On the right, micro plaids brown chesterfield with slanted pockets.

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Ulster overcoats with swelled edges. On the left, a single breasted model in camel hair. On the right, at double breasted 4 x 2  in grey. Note the use of scarves.

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Two more ulsters. On the left, a double breasted grey herringbone with  6 x 3 closure. On the right, a 6 x 2 double breasted brown whipcord overcoat. Excellent use of scarves again.

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Two classic chesterfields for business suits.

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Single breasted drape overcoat with peak lapels and low button stance.

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Bespoke light grey chesterfield from a German tailor.

Photos: The Journal of Style

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Howdy

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Jeans and tweed are related, aren’t they? Years ago they were both workwear, and they still seem to share a certain coarseness, which may hang out once in a while.

I have appeared once before in the tweed-jeans combination. Now I try again pairing tweed and jeans with a red-white gingham shirt and a bandana.

Howdy.

Photo: The Journal of Style

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The Light Grey Suit

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What to do, if traditional bespoke is out of your budget?

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Jakub, a law student at University of Copenhagen, shows a solution. He orders his suits from a travelling MTM tailor based in Thailand, when he visits Copenhagen quarterly. The price of two-piece starts at 350 Euro.

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What I really like is that Jakub demonstrates that taste, not the wallet, is the important faculty, when it comes to excellent dressing. Jakub knows, how his light grey suit should fit, and he has an eye for colours and  detailing.

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Surely his tall and slender build helps him but it would be wrong to attribute the style effect to that advantage alone. In fact it is not very important. The difference comes from his ability to use clothing harmoniously.

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Jakob keeps himself warm in a quilted jacket from Barbour. The foulard tie is from Hermês, and the blake-stitched shoes are by Cole-Haan.

Photos: The Journal of Style

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The Suit is Situated in Time

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The suit is not timeless attire. On the contrary, the suit is situated in time. All those small dressing choices you make will be influenced by an invisble hand called Zeitgeist. Pitti Uomo in Florence is a good place to observe this social fact. Most people, who dress in suits and tailored jacket there, prefer the same tight and skimpy cut. Many accessories will be the same as well. Just consider the present photos: knit vest, felt hat, suede loafers, wool tie, chain. Haven’t you noticed them before?

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There is nothing wrong in attire fashioned by time. All attire will be somewhat affected by the now. It becomes silly, though, if people promote their fashionable style as a purely individual style born in themselves. That happens.

Photos: The Journal of Style

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