At the Old Fortress

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Men rarely wear a necktie on weekends anymore. They feel it will be awkward. I have written about that before. It can be done though. Butler shows how.

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He is taking a walk by the old fortress on a Sunny, yet somewhat cold spring Sunday. He wears a bespoke golden sport coat from Steven Hitchcock, moleskin trousers from Cordings, a cashmere tie from Teo Grimaldi, a shirt from Turnbull and Asser, bespoke nubucks from John Lobb (St. James’s), shades from Retrosuperfuture, and …

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a silk crêpe handerchief from Grunwald, a favourite of his, I should remember to say.

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Photos: The Journal of Style

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A Magazine Feature about Classic Menswear

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I was interviewed about classic menswear for a magazine that Nordea, the large bank, has. A photographer was sent out to photo shoot me, and I grabbed my DB Volkmar Arnulf suit, an off-white shirt (Harvie & Hudson, bespoke), dark red captoes (Warsaw, bespoke), a green-orange handkerchief (Grunwald), and a bold orange tie (Antonio Muro). The photographer had asked for a splash. I assume that the idea is that a splash anchors the composition.

It is impossible to praise one’s own dress, so I will refrain from that. On the other hand, I will laud the photographer, Patricia Oczki. She has done a good job, a true professional.

Photo: The Journal of Style

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Benjamin Klemann Shoes – part 1

Benjamin-Klemann-Shoes-3I have numerous bespoke shoes from the Warsaw shoemakers Tadeusz Januszkiewicz and Jan Kielman. The former has made me the better fitting shoes, whereas the latter has made me shoes with a perhaps slightly more flattering shape. Now I will test a new shoemaker: Benjamin Klemann in Hamburg, who according to my sources is the most recognized shoemaker in Germany. I hope he can unite excellent fit, proper construction, and charming style.

Benjamin-Klemann-Shoes-2Klemann is one of supposedly three shoemakers in the world, who stock the famous Russian reindeer leathers from the Danish vessel “Catharina von Flensburg”. It sank outside Cornwall in 1786 on its way to Italy, and in 1973 it was discovered by divers from Plymouth. In the cargo the divers later found well-preserved reindeer hides, which had gone through a long and now forgotten tanning process in St. Petersburg, Russia. The story has since shrouded the leathers from Catharina in mystery. I have read mixed reports about them though. Some say they are prone to crack. Others praise their extraordinary patina. I will talk to Benjamin Klemann about the Russian reindeer leathers.

Benjamin-Klemann-Shoes-1I will also ask him about different welting methods and expressions, for instance how  he looks at double stich welting, storm welt, and the veldtschoen construction.

Benjamin-Klemann-Shoes-4Another thing I will ask about is his view on the Budapest or Central European shoemaking tradition and the English shoemaking tradition. He has trained in both schools, and I guess something must differ, not only in styling but in construction methods and techniques as well.

In regards to the shoe model that I will order, I have a punched cap oxford in mind.

Stay tuned for more about Benjamin Klemann shoes …

Photos: Benjamin Klemann

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Adventurous Semi-Formal Evening Wear

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When it was common for men to wear a dinner jacket there was room for variation in semi-formal evening wear. You could include a midnight blue tuxedo, and a ecru dinner jacket or cotton madras dinner jacket for summer in your wardrobe.

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Footwear could vary too. Men were allowed to swap black patent leather shoes with white loafers in those warm and light summer nights. The short spencer jacket was a solution as well, at least in sartorial magazines. Smoking jackets were seen in winter.

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The only things you couldn’t change were the dark bow tie, the white shirt, and, save the Duke of Windsor and a Scotsman in trews, the dark trousers.

Photo: The Journal of Style

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Trademark Attire

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Often style will come from idiosyncrasies, which you repeat over and over again, and less so from copying general rules carefully. Lino Leluzzi in his super tight double breasted jackets, extreme cutaway collars, wool tie, and heavily decorated and patinated monk strap shoes is a prime example.

Another fellow, which has a trademark attire, is the fellow above. I don’t know his name but he is visiting Pitti Uomo too.  He likes jeans and double breasted coats, he has a fine moustache and brushed back hair, however what I notice the most perhaps is his unbuttoned shirt cuffs. They are always dangling on his hands. In a way the omission is ridiculous, yet it is defining feature. If you button those cuffs, you are weakining his style.

Photo: The Journal of Style

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